When Sophie Bathgate set up Sophie’s Steakhouse in Chelsea with Rupert Power in 2002, it was widely hailed as an unequivocal success. Bathgate—the daughter of Jeremy Mogford, who founded the Browns restaurant chain in 1973, before selling it in 1996 for £35million—even earned the praise of Jay Rayner. The notoriously tough restaurant critic, who has earned the title “world’s most feared”, summed it up as “great salads, great steaks, great chips, good wine”, which must surely have been met with a hearty sigh of relief. This winter, hot on the heels of the closure of the Covent Garden branch earlier this year, they open their first outpost in Soho. Set in the home of the old Moulin cinema, there will be an all-day restaurant, an enormous terrace and a six-seater kiosk with an inbuilt wood-fired smoker for takeaway gems, too. As well as the reliably excellent steak, this time there’s equal emphasis on veggie and fish dishes, without losing the smokey fire-side aesthetic, thanks to the open kitchen and the “infernillo” grill (pictured).