Victoria is in the midst of an overhaul, and several big chefs have set up shop around the station. The Riding House Cafe has just opened an outpost, and Social Eating House’s Jason and Irha Atherton recently launched their all-day Italian eatery, Hai Cenato, just metres from the Tube. But, until now, its backstreets remained largely unchartered. Ex-River Café sommelier Katie Exton and chef Peter Hall have joined forces to open Lorne, a 48-cover restaurant on Wilton Street. The duo’s first venture, the restaurant is bright, and filled with light. Pale wooden chairs line up against a granite counter, and big boxes of foliage are dotted sporadically throughout the interior. The emphasis at Lorne is on modern British cuisine. The menu, therefore, is experimental yet fundamentally hearty. A stand-out starter is the rabbit terrine served alongside a trio of date, carrot and radish. For the less carnivorous, the artichoke with rocket and ricotta is a better option. Mains are unabashedly wholesome. Think short-rib beef with lashings of onion vinaigrette, and guinea fowl served with boudin noir and mushroom. Offering good food paired with great wine, it’s well worth diving back into the heart of Victoria.
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